Report by David Hayes
A great new venue, a landmark anniversary and the attention of the world’s press and buyers focused squarely back on London Fashion Week: there are a lot of reasons to feel good about the past few days. But more than that, more than the fact that Spring/Summer is by default lighter, brighter and that little bit sunnier, there is a new shared feeling of optimism among designers that is hard to shake.
“I think it is really interesting when everything is really grim in the rest of the world that designers seem to be doing things to make you smile,” says The Sunday Times Style Fashion Director, Lucy Ewing.
And it’s true, many of the best shows have plugged in to the new upbeat mood, with sugared-almond hues (Louise Goldin, Christopher Kane and Nicole Farhi), frills and flounces (Charles Anastase, Richard Nicoll and Graeme Black) and a certain extra spring in their step.
“I got so bogged down with concepts last season that I wanted something pretty and uplifting,” said Danielle Scutt of her frothy, peachy-pink Spring/Summer 2010 collection. Richard Nicoll couldn’t agree more. “We all need frivolity in our lives,” said the designer, whose collection had been inspired by a fun summer in Spain.
Marios Schwab, who still had a very cerebral concept behind his fine, romantic vision, admitted that optimism played a big part. “Absolutely,” he said. “Women need an emotional attachment with the clothes they buy.” And what women want right now, it seems, is to connect with something uplifting.
Even when the clothes came coated in a hard, protective edge, often the choice of venue told a different story. “We have been showing in a church in Paris for the past few seasons,” said Antonio Berardi at his London show space, St Mark’s Church. “It just feels really uplifting and euphoric.”
For some designers, it has been about having a good time despite everything. “I am most inspired when I’m out dancing,” said Louise Gray. “The woman I design for is ultimately someone who is fun.”
So let’s hear it for positive thinking. With what we have seen so far this week, it can clearly go a long way.
