Report by Rebecca Lowthorpe
Fashion Features Director, Elle
It all started with a smile. On the catwalk! True, an almost unheard of occurrence in the straight-faced business of modelling. The girl in question was prancing down Dame Vivienne Westwood’s catwalk and –boom! – out of nowhere, a beautiful, broad, toothy smile.
And so it was that by the time Nathan Jenden’s models stormed the catwalk at the end of his show – dancing, leaping, laughing and encouraging their audience to do the same – there was no question that London Fashion Week (which ended on Wednesday) was in the grips of an optimistism pandemic.
“They all did it spontaneously, even in rehearsal,” said a breathless Jenden backstage. “It’s all about having fun; fashion should be fun.”
There was much to feel good about – a spectacular new show venue at Somerset House, a landmark anniversary celebrating 25 years of London fashion and an international front row, spearheaded by US Vogue’
s all-powerful Anna Wintour, who had flown in to see what all the fuss was about. Luckily, the designers they had come over to see did not disappoint. How embarrassing might it have been if Christopher Kane had presented a dud or Erdem had started over two hours late? But there were to be none of the usual LFW antics; in their place a slick, professional schedule and polished shows of an international class. Phew.
But more than that, a powerful buoyed-up feeling of positivity. London’s 25-year celebration – a kind of coming of age for the fashion city known for producing sapling talent only for it to leave and make a name for itself elsewhere – could even be felt in the stitches of the clothes. There was a sweetness to the London collections, not just with the proliferation of sugared- almond colours and so many pretty dresses, but also because designers actually used the word ‘pretty’ and talked of wanting their customers to feel ‘uplifted’. Antonio Berardi – a huge talent who came back to London having shown his collections in Milan and Paris for the past 10 years – described his show venue, St Mark’s Church in Mayfair, as ‘euphoric’
.
“Women need to feel an emotional attachment with the clothes they buy,” said designer Marios Schwab. “I want them to feel good. It’s the only way people are really going to buy clothes now.”
So the biggest new trend to come out of London this season? Optimism.
CRIB UP ON THE SPRING/SUMMER 2010 TRENDS WITH THE LFW DAILY’S SNEAK PEEK OF WHAT YOU’
LL BE WEARING Compiled by Cat Catalogue in the following posts…
Also in Beauty
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Beauty Mole: Pablo Rodriguez
The make-up inspiration for Ashish was Eastern European girls from an imaginary country called Ashishistan.
The models had to look very natural, with bare skin, just using M.A.C Face and Body Foundation.
The only feature of the face that was enhanced was the eyebrows, using M.A.C Impeccable Brow Pencil in a mix of Taupe and Dirty Blonde, to make them look dramatically unkept.
Lashed were just curled. And on the lips Prep + Prime Lip was applied to condition them without any glossy finish.
The final look was innocent raw beauty with a tough look in the eyes.
At Mary Katrantzou, the look Val Garland created was inspired by the movie Dangerous Liaisons, with an 18th Century feel to it. Skin was treated with minimum coverage, just using Select Moisturecover Concealer, only where necessary, for a ‘real’ skin look.
The eyebrows were defined with the new Impeccable Eye Brow Pencil in Taupe.
On the lips, Lip Pencil Cherry, Lipmix Crimson and Pro Pigment Red for a straight pointed super matte mouth, like a velvet sticker glued on. Eye Kohl Pencil in Fascinating was used in the water line and Prep & Prime Finishing Power all over the face for an extra smooth finish. The final look was graphic features with an ultra feminine approach.
MAC Senior Artist Pablo has trodden the backstage boards for the capital’s finest designers. This week, he’ll be bringing The LFW Daily an exclusive behind-the-scenes nose at the beauty trends that will be rocking our world come autumn.
Says Pablo, “We just finished Ashley Isham’s show. The make-up look created by Sharon Dowsett was inspired by the 80s movie Flash Gordon, particularly the character of Ming’s daughter, played by Italian actress Ornella Mutti.
Skin was perfected with the new MAC Mineralize Foundation SPF 15 cream, to give enough coverage but still look like real skin.
On the eyes, MAC Pigment in Blue Brown was applied from the lash line right up to the eyebrow, with a soft, pointed shape at the sides that almost went up to the hairline.
MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack gave a feline shape to the models’ eyes, with a long, straight flick on the outer corners, and MAC Lashes gave an even sharper look.Cheekbones were highlighted with Cream Colour Base in Pearl, and contoured with the same product in Mid Tone Sepia.
On the lips, a 3D effect was created by using Pro Pigment in Pink Bronze in the centre and the same Pigment in Blue Brown as the eyes, applied on the corners of the mouth.
The final effect was exotic retro with a futuristic edge. -
M.A.C's Terry Barber at Pam Hogg
The make-up at Pam Hogg was a gothic graphic eyebrow glossed to a pvc finish on a soft romantic face with a grey stained lip. A little bit of a Tim Burton influence. My anti bleached brow moment. I painted the brows with MAC Blacktrack fluidline and Lipglass, squaring and straightening them like an early nineties Peter Lindberg photo. Siouxsie Sioux opened the show and I did her make-up….I managed not to fall into a gibbering wreck! One more hero to add to my list. She was great.
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beauty mole: terry barber
The make-up at Todd’s show was based on chic simplicity, bare but with structured dewy highlights. Make-up imitating skincare, like a kind of pumped up male grooming.the girls looked aristocratic, reflecting the hunting theme of Todd’s collection. I used a highlight within a highlight…..MAC’s cream colour bases in Pearl and Luna to bring some “rigour” into MAC studio sculpt foundation. Very modern to base beauty on the quality of the skin with no statement in eyes and lips.
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Opposites Attract
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To blank or not to blank...
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Fashion gets happy!
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Swimmer’s Hair
Compiled by Cat Catalogue
Photography by Anna BauerTake a dip—and leave your hair wet afterwards. Swimmer’s hair is in. Basso & Brooke channelled model Stephanie Seymour surfacing from the pool in that Herb Ritts photo, keeping it wet with L’Oréal Paris Studio Line Design Wet Gel. Guido Palau went for damp and slightly 1990s grunge at Jonathan Saunders [see above] and hair stylist Malcolm Edwards did a twisted-hair look at Amanda Wakeley that recalled a 1970s Marie Helvin. Whatever the inspiration, it makes summer a whole lot easier.
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Knotty But Nice
Compiled by Cat Catalogue
Photography by Jason Lloyd-EvansElevate your ponytail into high fashion with a simple twist and tie. Charles Worthington and stylist Marc Trinder were inspired by how Japanese girls knot their hair at Erdem [see above], while Sam McKnight braided, pinned and knotted high ponytails at Jaeger.
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Perfect Pins
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Manga Make Up
Compiled by Cat Catalogue
Photography by Marcus DawesWhy be subtle when you can be a superhero with the flick of an eyeliner? Manga make up made us whoop with delight at Luella [see above], where bright colour blocks of blue, red and glossy black framed models’ eyes. The look went futuristic and doll-like at Kinder Aggugini, while make-up artist Pat McGrath used pink blusher and purple glitter across lids and cheeks. Val Garland chose a graphic, linear under-eye liner at Mary Katrantzou. The question is, are you brave enough?
