Rub shoulders with the fashion elite by booking yourself into One Aldwych for an elegant weekend break. Special advance purchase winter rates are now available. Thanks to the luxe minimalist interiors peppered with contemporary art and bespoke furniture, it’s not hard to see why it’s beloved by fashion and beauty editors alike. So what are you waiting for?
Rates start from £240 + VAT per room, per night, including breakfast and full use of hotel facilities.
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Inside Out
Burberry
CHARLES ANASTASE
AQUASCUTUM
Julien Macdonald
photographed by catwalking.com
Report by Katie GreengassGrans and grandads, lock up your husky jackets, outerwear is having a moment. Our old friend the coat does, of course, make up the flavour of winter but this season London designers have played the cover up centre stage.
“Designers are especially concerned with jackets and coats this season,” Harrods’ Fashion and Beauty Director Marigay Mckee told The LFW Daily. “Bombers are the particular favourite along with the military style jackets,” she said.
Burberry based an entire collection around aviator jackets while Charles Anastase layered knitwear on top of overcoats. Daks took the husky and gave it an up to date, eccentric spin via leggings, capes and bonnets from the traditional fabric. Design duo Basso & Brooke weaved Trompe-l’œil goretex anoraks into their ensemble and at Aquascutum Michael Herz transformed tailored jackets into full-length dresses. Meanwhile, at Mens day today [Wed], E Tautz featured the ultimate in deluxe outerwear courtesy a cashmere fit for a prince. Luckily one [HRH Prince Michael] was sitting front row and was seemingly rather taken by it.
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Anna-Marie in that M&S hunting jacket
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHANIQWA JARVIS
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Beauty Mole: Pablo Rodriguez
The make-up inspiration for Ashish was Eastern European girls from an imaginary country called Ashishistan.
The models had to look very natural, with bare skin, just using M.A.C Face and Body Foundation.
The only feature of the face that was enhanced was the eyebrows, using M.A.C Impeccable Brow Pencil in a mix of Taupe and Dirty Blonde, to make them look dramatically unkept.
Lashed were just curled. And on the lips Prep + Prime Lip was applied to condition them without any glossy finish.
The final look was innocent raw beauty with a tough look in the eyes.
At Mary Katrantzou, the look Val Garland created was inspired by the movie Dangerous Liaisons, with an 18th Century feel to it. Skin was treated with minimum coverage, just using Select Moisturecover Concealer, only where necessary, for a ‘real’ skin look.
The eyebrows were defined with the new Impeccable Eye Brow Pencil in Taupe.
On the lips, Lip Pencil Cherry, Lipmix Crimson and Pro Pigment Red for a straight pointed super matte mouth, like a velvet sticker glued on. Eye Kohl Pencil in Fascinating was used in the water line and Prep & Prime Finishing Power all over the face for an extra smooth finish. The final look was graphic features with an ultra feminine approach.
MAC Senior Artist Pablo has trodden the backstage boards for the capital’s finest designers. This week, he’ll be bringing The LFW Daily an exclusive behind-the-scenes nose at the beauty trends that will be rocking our world come autumn.
Says Pablo, “We just finished Ashley Isham’s show. The make-up look created by Sharon Dowsett was inspired by the 80s movie Flash Gordon, particularly the character of Ming’s daughter, played by Italian actress Ornella Mutti.
Skin was perfected with the new MAC Mineralize Foundation SPF 15 cream, to give enough coverage but still look like real skin.
On the eyes, MAC Pigment in Blue Brown was applied from the lash line right up to the eyebrow, with a soft, pointed shape at the sides that almost went up to the hairline.
MAC Fluidline in Blacktrack gave a feline shape to the models’ eyes, with a long, straight flick on the outer corners, and MAC Lashes gave an even sharper look.Cheekbones were highlighted with Cream Colour Base in Pearl, and contoured with the same product in Mid Tone Sepia.
On the lips, a 3D effect was created by using Pro Pigment in Pink Bronze in the centre and the same Pigment in Blue Brown as the eyes, applied on the corners of the mouth.
The final effect was exotic retro with a futuristic edge. -
CHRISTOPHER KANE
Christopher Kane has become masterful at delivering a clear, concise message, season in, season out. This time around, it was all about tailoring. In wool, or black matte or patent leather – much of it decorated with vibrant embroidery – it was contrasted with lace blouses or lace panels that were spliced across skirts and dresses. There was a folkloric feel to the colourfully embroidered pansies and wild flowers that started out gently running up the sleeve of a chiffon blouse or a black cashmere cardigan with artfully slashed sleeves, or across the hemline of a skirt, and ended up dancing all over short leather dresses. Later in the show, Kane traded the flowers for crystals with glittering starbursts appearing on matte leather mini-dresses or shell tops, or circling a deep black patent cummerbund that cinched a black wool jacket with crisp patent collar. There was a nod to his homeland in the neat (and super-short) black wool kilts and a gorgeous black patent biker jacket with lambskin collar that was embroidered with a cluster of Scottish thistles.
Report by CLARE COULSON
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MARIOS SCHWAB
If his first season at Halston was a distraction for Marios Schwab, he definitely didn’t show it in the strong, polished collection he sent out yesterday. He kicked off with a flesh-toned dress that was cut away at the bodice and edged with a waffly trimming. A series of pinafore dresses followed, all of which had a strict schoolgirl feeling (a nod, Schwab said, to being “the only boy at fashion school”), but were cut with curvilinear collars that dipped away to reveal crisp white shirting. Other jersey dresses were topped with beautifully cut, sculptural little jackets or pulled in at the waist with decorative corsetry. Schwab reinterpreted the dirndl, but there was nothing school-marmish about his full, short skirts and dresses that came out in loden wool, duchesse satin or richly coloured brocades. Later, he continued with the week’s yearning for embellishment, as crystals outlined the bodices of dresses, while textural coats in smoke grey or forest green, neatly belted at the waist, added to the plush, tactile feeling of this collection.
Report by CLARE COULSON
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ROKSANDA ILINCIC
From the voluminous crimped hair and glossy Seventies make up to the upbeat disco tunes, Roksanda Ilincic was in a New York state of mind for autumn, giving us a super-polished collection that was, she said, “all about the beauty of winter fabrics, their textures and the way they can be sculpted around the body.” There was plenty of Ilincic’s signature cocktailwear, including a parade of killer charmeuse dresses in deep olive green, raspberry and smoke blue. A highlight was a pale pink charmeuse tunic that fanned into an air-filled cape at the back to a stunning strapless oyster silk column with a sculptural asymmetric peplum. But she developed her day wear, too, showing a beautiful charcoal jersey dress draped elegantly across the body, and a series of clean-cut shift dresses in black bouclé and charcoal wool. Some tailoring came heavily embellished with crystals and beading. On a lighter note were the sheer flesh-toned voile blouses and fluid pants, all of which were topped off with sumptuous fur stoles and gilets – perfect for a well-heeled New York city girl.
Report by CLARE COULSON
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jaeger
Jaeger’s reinvention continues apace under Design Director Stuart Stockdale. For A/W 10, he focussed on traditional fabrics, from camel hair – which the brand was using more than a century ago – to sheepskin, leather, cashmere and wool mohair. Outerwear dominated this show: think oversized shawl-collared coats and jackets (which, when paired with black leggings and riding hats, took on a Mod feel), to single- breasted mohair overcoats. Some were deconstructed with cut-outs at the back – not too practical for an icy British winter. More appealing were the oversized zip-front cardigan-coats. There was masculine tailoring, too: a camel trouser suit with leather lapels and boyish- cut trousers; almost bohemian black velvet pants – which had all the ease of a pair of well-worn sweatpants – with pleats around the hips and a turned-down waistband. There were plenty of pieces here for the Jaeger woman also. The easy, ribbed sweater dresses, shaggy gilets and abstract appliquéd silk dresses were a collection highlight.
Report by CLARE COULSON
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What Katie Wore…at LFW
COPY AND PICTURES BY JOE SINCLAIR,
SITTINGS EDITOR: KATIE GREENGRASS“So we end the week with my favorite outfit. The beautiful dresses Charlotte Sparre, the amazing shoes are Kron and the Flava Flav style necklace is, of course, from the brilliant Tatty Devine.This has been such a fun week for us, thanks one last time to the guys at The Daily for inviting us to be their guests at LFW.Signing Out, J x”
Clothing credits:
Julia zipper dress in pink (100% silk), 411251, Charlotte Sparre Copenhagen, Stand 3, Lower Embankment Galleries
Pink and mint super dress, 415252, Charlotte Sparre Copenhagen, Stand 3, Lower Embankment Galleries
Gold glitter pocket watch, WAT-LP-GLD, Tatty Devine, Stand 42, Upper Embankment Galleries
Patent peep toe bow shoe, 30277A, Kron by Kronkron, Stand 40, Upper Embankment Galleries
Tights, Katie’s own
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Basso & Brooke Prints Moodboard
Introduction by Katie Greengrass
The Kings of playful prints, Basso & Brooke invite The Daily for an exclusive preview of this season’s key dress.
“We’re very excited to showcase our new prints and materials as influenced by the nomadic culture we encountered on our recent trip to Uzbekistan.”
“People would exchange and barter materials, adding them to their clothing, that experience inspired this dress.”
Basso & Brooke, 11.30 am, 23rd February, BFC Showspace.
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One Aldwych
Any fashion and beauty editor not flitting to Milan post LFW will be treating themselves to one of the luxurious Natura Bisse treatments at One Aldwych’s The Heath Club. Choose from a range of 30 minute Express Treatments or One Aldwych’s signature massage the Natura Bisse ‘Floral Ritual’. Designed to improve circulation and reduce muscle tension, it’s the perfect antidote to a fatiguing, fashion packed week.
Treatments start at £45. For more information treatments@onealdwych.com
REPORT BY FIONA CAMPBELL
