
“It was all about the Ballets Russes,” said Erdem Moralioglu backstage after his pretty show, set beneath the plane trees of Bedford Square in Bloomsbury yesterday. The location, along with the beautiful soundtrack (by Igor Stravinsky), made this feel like an escapist, magical show from the start. And the clothes, which began as a series of pale cream and white silk-and-lace dresses with doll-like shapes and delicate lace collars or fluttering caped backs, had a fantasy feeling, too. This was a girlish collection – shown on models who were glowingly fresh faced, their heads circled with a halo of French plaits. Gradually, Erdem introduced colour – at first a smattering of blood-red embroideries that soon morphed into red lace dresses with full skirts. His signature prints eventually appeared, combined with stripes or cut into complex patchworks, or spliced with lace and then overlaid with a smattering of crystal or embroidery. He closed his show with a series of gowns featuring a romantic gardenia print – the last of which floated along with a long train that was simply dreamy.
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