Report by Rebecca May Johnson
The exhibitions at On/Off and Vauxhall Fashion Scout are where many of the next generation of LFW stars are to be found showing off their work, from womenswear to jewellery. Rebecca May Johnson goes an on exhibition expedition .
On/Off – Zara Gorman – milliner
Zara Gorman, who finished MA Millinery at the Royal College this June, makes hats inspired by Japanese architecture and the facades of buildings, in Wenge and Perspex. She uses construction methods from building rather than millinery techniques such as bolts to fit pieces together. A favourite was the terraced circular terraced hat in brown Wenge wood.
www.zaragorman.com
On/Off – Shao Yen – womenswear
‘Skin’ is the title of Shao Yen’s S/S 2011 collection, which contrasts smooth planes of leather, cut close to the body with explosions of plastic fibres in candy colours and black. Shao Yen refined his design skills through 7 years at Central St. Martins, and internships with Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayen and Claire Tough. His sculptural shapes manage to be at once delicate and bold.
www.shao-yen.com
On/Off – Angela Cassidy – knitwear
Scottish knitwear designer Angela Cassidy’s simple but perfectly executed pieces include mesh knitted warm beige vests, understated graphic patterned cropped knits and grey draped sleeves button-down vests with drawstring waits. Angela’s a fast riser – having only launched in February, she’s already doing knitwear for Browns, and bagged Textile Brand of the Year award in the Scottish Fashion Awards this summer.
www.angelacassidydesign.com
VFS – Lilee – womenswear
Selected by Asos.com to do a capsule collection for A/W 2010 (available online from October) and showing as part of the Ones to Watch show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout Lilee has had a good year. Her S/S 2011 collection mostly white with touches of navy, is exquisitely crafted by Korean technicians and contains intricate pleating, knitted silks and tailoring in white leather. A standout piece is a full length dress featuring bold pleats over the whole body.
VFS – Katie Rowland – jeweller
Katie Rowland’s S/S 2011 collection is inspired by original bible feminist, Lilith. Folklore surrounding Lillith, who was kicked out of Eden by God for refusing to be subservient to Adam, depicts her as a fanged demon and is reflected in Katie’s collection in her gold, fanged ring. Katie’s jewelry is selling out at Liberty, (she’s had two re-orders on the current collection) and recently commissioned to do catwalk jewelry for Hasan Hejazi’s spring/summer collection in Paris.
