Charles Anastase played us in (out of the pouring rain) to The Doors’ Riders on the Storm, and then let Brigitte Fontaine’s Il Pleut take over. “My collection began with memories of weather like this,” he said. “Being brought up in France around castles in dark, rainy countryside. It’s about a young Lolita who just gets naughtier, but we try to restrain her a bit.” This season his muse has escaped the nursery in a fit of early teenage rebellion and dashed (as fast as she can in platform riding boots) to the stables. His signature princess coats were worn over matching trousers in rich autumnal tweeds and velvets, while tiny silk dresses and Peter Pan-collared jumpsuits clung to the body from sheer jewelled uppers – this little girl wants to join, and ensnare, the grown-ups. Button-backed cashmere dresses and sheer lamé cardigans eased a collection in which a potentially heavy Seventies theme of brushed-out hair, tactile fabrics and flares was touched with medieval motifs to whip in even more historical drama.
Report by Dolly Jones, Editor, vogue.com
Photography by catwalking.com
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