Report by Clare Coulson, Fashion Features Director, Harper’s Bazaar
Photography by catwalking.com
The show notes for Peter Pilotto’s collection talked of “a new tough territory”, but tough is probably the wrong word, as there was nothing hard about the draped dresses, the dynamic digital prints or the foray into knits that the duo showed first thing yesterday morning. However, this season some strong tailoring – in the form of long sleeveless coats – did offer a more structured counterpoint to the often complex dresses and tops. And while many silhouettes seemed to be developed from last season’s collection, they seemed more commercial than Spring/Summer’s slightly tricky midi-lengths. Perhaps that’s because there were more options – some shorter, printed dresses, silk tops and clean column dresses, some of which featured billowing trains. Some shapes didn’t quite work – the layering of skirts over voluminous trousers, for one. But those printed trousers had a lot more appeal when they were paired with an elegant draped jersey top and a tailored coat.
