report by linda grant
photography by catwalking.com
As a woman of a certain age, my heart leaps when I see a sleeve. For years they have been out of fashion, as a generation of gym-toned triceps were shown off. Which is a shame, because the whole of fashion history has been that of changing sleeve trends: the floor-sweeping medieval trains you could hide a lapdog in; the leg-o’-mutton sleeves of the Victorian era. Emilio de la Morena’s lean, normally body-con silhouette was transformed into a modern-day version of Edwardian dress using crochet, high-necked pin-tucked blouses and knee-length pencil skirts. But the most exciting aspect of his look was his attention to sleeves. They appeared quilted on a Lurex wool skirt suit, on dresses with flattering panelling, and the message was that of the modern adult. The effect might have been too demure had it not been for the red satin high heels by Charlotte Olympia, which seemed to be a reference to the underwear that might lie beneath – showing that what you cover up can be the sexiest thing of all
