Julien MacDonald

Sunday 18 September 2011

Catwalk

Super yachts and Asian antiquity – not a combination that easily springs to mind, but with Julien Macdonald’s
infectious energy and determined glamour-without-measure, it meant a show that sparkled with elaborate ambition. Macdonald sees himself as a couturier for ready-to-wear, which meant one evening dress had been worked on by no less than 60 embroiderers, while his daywear was all bonded jersey and leather, plasticised cotton-mesh (for black, white and yellow “squiggle” knits that added a modern, sporty element), and a freshblue and white print inspired by Japanese crockery.
Shiny metallic belts, patent porter caps and silver spikedheels worn with cutaway leather coats were as hardcore
as ever from the Welshman, but he really got into his stride with barely there nude dresses embellished in ruched lace, sequins and beaded scales that rippled down the catwalk. One wrapped the model head-to-toe in chain mail, while others dropped to mid thigh, glittering with Twenties tasselled sassiness.

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