It was an evening of firsts for Matthew Williamson. The first time any designer had shown in the Turbine Hall of London’s Tate Modern, and his first shoe collection with Charlotte Olympia (fab red or green Perspex-heeled pumps). But it wasn’t the first time he has shown his skill with colour, print and embellishment. He does it every season. For summer he played with Oriental textiles, sometimes blowing blossom prints into neon hazes, others inserting miniature Tokyo scenes onto flower silhouettes. Then he super-scaled the buds until they resembled ikat prints. And his daywear was enviably relaxed. Tobacco jumpsuits and jackets, easy silk trousers and shirts, knits with beaded necklines. Looking for something more maximalist? What about a hot pink frock with tufted feathers, or a long bodycon column with beading and feathered peplums at the hips? But the real showstopper had to be his saffron gown, intricately detailed with dense appliqué at the torso and finishing with a flaming orange train. Beautiful pieces, beautifully done.
