Report by Heath Brown
Don’t be scared of classic, it’s starting to look modern again. Whether with a twist or not, old-school favourite shapes, fabrics and styles are key to every collection. Full-skirt dresses, below-the-knee pencil skirts, cashmere twinset sweaters, windowpane checks…we’ve seen them all before, but why do they look so right now?
“It’s not so much retrospective but more nostalgic,” said Inacio Ribeiro backstage, after the Clements Ribeiro show. “It’s a look back to the best in fashion, but almost anti-fashion, too.” “It’s not that we are stuck in the past or desperate to change the future, either,” added co-designer Suzanne Clements. “It’s more a realisation of what we love and who we are.”
Over at Sister by Sibling, they upturned true granny style via punk-era irony, by changing the colour palette. “We took vintage Seventies from when it wasn’t on-trend and injected it with DayGlo, old-lady charm,” said Joe Bates, one of the label’s designers, post-show.
Anglo-Italian Kinder Aggugini also got lost in the past when designing his collection. He recalled seaside souvenirs of his youth and imaginary fishermen of yore, with double-breasted blazers and a tea-towel-print cotton dress. “Old into new and new from imaginary,” he said.
As ever with Holly Fulton, her show referenced socialites and film heroines of the post-war era, swiftly updated with gorgeously modern fabric treatments and fresh new colours on pencil skirts and neat cocktail dresses. “I love gleaning iconic styles of the past for a fresh new take of my own,” she said. It seems she’s not the only one.