London Fashion Week: The Daily

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MORGAN O’DONOVAN AND SHANIQWA JARVIS

REPORT BY ROSE BEER

ERDEM

1. Nuance of neon: Clone-like, robotic girls made up a beautiful model army at Erdem. The pièce de résistance? A dusting of neon orange to the inner lip. “It’s as if they are grasping a neon bulb in their mouth and it’s glowing,” explained the show’s make-up man Andrew Gallimore.
2. Nail tips: Psychedelic was the nail-art look for S/S 13. At House of Holland, nail whizz Sophy Robson created a way-out tie-dye effect, while Katie Hughes used a marbling technique to embellish bright fuchsia talons with graphic swirls at PPQ.
3. Tied up: Hairstylist Orlando Pita’s rope braids sealed the beauty deal at Antonio Berardi, summing up the collection’s all-American, sports-luxe mood in one fell swish. “A ponytail was too low key and a fishtail plait too complex, so this was the happy medium,” he explained.
4. Val’s day: Make-up maestro Val Garland led backstage teams at a whopping five shows on Sunday, pulling out the stops at each. Her good-luck charm for the day? A pin with a bright blue phallic charm, no less. “I’m feeling cocky today,” she explained.
5. Two-tone: Bright, statement lips have been sparse this week, so when make-up artist Andrew Gallimore painted two-tone orange and fuchsia loud-mouths onto Holly Fulton’s skater-girl models, we couldn’t help but swoon.
6. Million-dollar darlings: Mary Katranzou’s bright, spliced, digital monetary prints inspired rich pickings backstage. Make-up artists got messy mixing M.A.C. pigments to achieve ravishing inky eyes that were an identical colour-match to banknote lineage.
7. Fake it to make it: Bobs are back, but you don’t need to get the chop to try the trend. Antoni & Alison and PPQ took the wig/hairpiece route, while hairstylist Sam McKnight rolled hair into chic faux-bobs at Clements Ribeiro.
8. Souleiman’s the man: Brit super-stylist Eugene Souleiman hasn’t led a London show for five years, so when he showed up at Nicole Farhi and Mary Katrantzou on Sunday, there were celebratory whoops all-round. His architectural ‘dos’ showed hairdressing at its best.
9. A royal flush: Backstage at Vivienne Westwood Red Label, the creative teams worked furiously to transform 41 girls into green, purple and yellow-faced Andy Warhol-esque versions of Marilyn Monroe, Debbie Harry and the Queen. “It’s so wrong, it’s right,” said Val Garland with a giggle.
10. Backstage at Louise Gray, we discovered a gang of eccentric rockabilly LA punks. Make-up arrived in the form of hand-drawn crown-shaped grows and a cobalt-blue beauty spot, while hair was whipped up into eccentric off-centre updos. ‘This is truly bad hair,” explained Sam McKnight. “These girls have broken every beauty rule out there!”

ANTONIO BERARDI

HOLLY FULTON

CLEMENTS RIBEIRO

LOUISE GRAY