London Fashion Week Daily

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHANIQWA JARVIS

The make-up inspiration for Ashish was Eastern European girls from an imaginary country called Ashishistan.

The models had to look very natural, with bare skin, just using M.A.C Face and Body Foundation.

The only feature of the face that was enhanced was the eyebrows, using M.A.C Impeccable Brow Pencil in a mix of Taupe and Dirty Blonde, to make them look dramatically unkept.

Lashed were just curled. And on the lips Prep + Prime Lip was applied to condition them without any glossy finish.

The final look was innocent raw beauty with a tough look in the eyes.

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Christopher Kane has become masterful at delivering a clear, concise message, season in, season out. This time around, it was all about tailoring. In wool, or black matte or patent leather – much of it decorated with vibrant embroidery – it was contrasted with lace blouses or lace panels that were spliced across skirts and dresses. There was a folkloric feel to the colourfully embroidered pansies and wild flowers that started out gently running up the sleeve of a chiffon blouse or a black cashmere cardigan with artfully slashed sleeves, or across the hemline of a skirt, and ended up dancing all over short leather dresses. Later in the show, Kane traded the flowers for crystals with glittering starbursts appearing on matte leather mini-dresses or shell tops, or circling a deep black patent cummerbund that cinched a black wool jacket with crisp patent collar. There was a nod to his homeland in the neat (and super-short) black wool kilts and a gorgeous black patent biker jacket with lambskin collar that was embroidered with a cluster of Scottish thistles.

Report by CLARE COULSON

If his first season at Halston was a distraction for Marios Schwab, he definitely didn’t show it in the strong, polished collection he sent out yesterday. He kicked off with a flesh-toned dress that was cut away at the bodice and edged with a waffly trimming. A series of pinafore dresses followed, all of which had a strict schoolgirl feeling (a nod, Schwab said, to being “the only boy at fashion school”), but were cut with curvilinear collars that dipped away to reveal crisp white shirting. Other jersey dresses were topped with beautifully cut, sculptural little jackets or pulled in at the waist with decorative corsetry. Schwab reinterpreted the dirndl, but there was nothing school-marmish about his full, short skirts and dresses that came out in loden wool, duchesse satin or richly coloured brocades. Later, he continued with the week’s yearning for embellishment, as crystals outlined the bodices of dresses, while textural coats in smoke grey or forest green, neatly belted at the waist, added to the plush, tactile feeling of this collection.

Report by CLARE COULSON

From the voluminous crimped hair and glossy Seventies make up to the upbeat disco tunes, Roksanda Ilincic was in a New York state of mind for autumn, giving us a super-polished collection that was, she said, “all about the beauty of winter fabrics, their textures and the way they can be sculpted around the body.” There was plenty of Ilincic’s signature cocktailwear, including a parade of killer charmeuse dresses in deep olive green, raspberry and smoke blue. A highlight was a pale pink charmeuse tunic that fanned into an air-filled cape at the back to a stunning strapless oyster silk column with a sculptural asymmetric peplum. But she developed her day wear, too, showing a beautiful charcoal jersey dress draped elegantly across the body, and a series of clean-cut shift dresses in black bouclé and charcoal wool. Some tailoring came heavily embellished with crystals and beading. On a lighter note were the sheer flesh-toned voile blouses and fluid pants, all of which were topped off with sumptuous fur stoles and gilets – perfect for a well-heeled New York city girl.

Report by CLARE COULSON

Jaeger’s reinvention continues apace under Design Director Stuart Stockdale. For A/W 10, he focussed on traditional fabrics, from camel hair – which the brand was using more than a century ago – to sheepskin, leather, cashmere and wool mohair. Outerwear dominated this show: think oversized shawl-collared coats and jackets (which, when paired with black leggings and riding hats, took on a Mod feel), to single- breasted mohair overcoats. Some were deconstructed with cut-outs at the back – not too practical for an icy British winter. More appealing were the oversized zip-front cardigan-coats. There was masculine tailoring, too: a camel trouser suit with leather lapels and boyish- cut trousers; almost bohemian black velvet pants – which had all the ease of a pair of well-worn sweatpants – with pleats around the hips and a turned-down waistband. There were plenty of pieces here for the Jaeger woman also. The easy, ribbed sweater dresses, shaggy gilets and abstract appliquéd silk dresses were a collection highlight.

Report by CLARE COULSON

COPY AND PICTURES BY JOE SINCLAIR,
SITTINGS EDITOR: KATIE GREENGRASS

“So we end the week with my favorite outfit. The beautiful dresses Charlotte Sparre, the amazing shoes are Kron and the Flava Flav style necklace is, of course, from the brilliant Tatty Devine.This has been such a fun week for us, thanks one last time to the guys at The Daily for inviting us to be their guests at LFW.Signing Out, J x”

Clothing credits:

Julia zipper dress in pink (100% silk), 411251, Charlotte Sparre Copenhagen, Stand 3, Lower Embankment Galleries

Pink and mint super dress, 415252, Charlotte Sparre Copenhagen, Stand 3, Lower Embankment Galleries

Gold glitter pocket watch, WAT-LP-GLD, Tatty Devine, Stand 42, Upper Embankment Galleries

Patent peep toe bow shoe, 30277A, Kron by Kronkron, Stand 40, Upper Embankment Galleries

Tights, Katie’s own

www.whatkatiewore.com

Introduction by Katie Greengrass

The Kings of playful prints, Basso & Brooke invite The Daily for an exclusive preview of this season’s key dress.

“We’re very excited to showcase our new prints and materials as influenced by the nomadic culture we encountered on our recent trip to Uzbekistan.”

“People would exchange and barter materials, adding them to their clothing, that experience inspired this dress.”

Basso & Brooke, 11.30 am, 23^rd February, BFC Showspace.

Any fashion and beauty editor not flitting to Milan post LFW will be treating themselves to one of the luxurious Natura Bisse treatments at One Aldwych’s The Heath Club.  Choose from a range of 30 minute Express Treatments or One Aldwych’s signature massage the Natura Bisse ‘Floral Ritual’. Designed to improve circulation and reduce muscle tension, it’s the perfect antidote to a fatiguing, fashion packed week.

Treatments start at £45. For more information treatments@onealdwych.com

REPORT BY FIONA CAMPBELL